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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.